Penguins and People — Almost Antarctica

[dropcap]T[/dropcap]his is Part 2 of my Fierce Winds at the Edge of the World post, where Andrea and I travelled recently to Paine National Park in the Magallanes region of Chile. The southern tip of South America is rough country. Early attempts by the Spanish to establish colonies here in the 16th century were dismal

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Fierce Winds at the Edge of the World

[dropcap]S[/dropcap]ailors who ply the southern oceans call these latitudes the Roaring Forties and the Furious Fifties. We were not sailing, but the fierce winds between 50 and 60 degrees south batter the land as well as the sea. Andrea and I travelled with Recreational Equipment Inc. (R.E.I.) recently to Paine National Park (in Spanish Parque

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Fitz Roy—The Cloud Hidden Mountain

[dropcap]T[/dropcap]he first time I saw a photo of Mt. Fitz Roy, I knew I’d be here someday, if only to see close-up this historic and beautifully rugged place. How many would undertake an extreme journey because of a photograph? Perhaps some are drawn to the Eiffel Tower or the canals of Venice because of a

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Christmas On Ice: The Great Patagonian Ice Field

[dropcap]S[/dropcap]anta Claus arrived at the mall in San Diego’s Mission Valley in a virtual tie with the Great Pumpkin last year, and for me maybe that was the proverbial last straw. Or perhaps it was my 1750th family gathering, give or take—and if you count Easter, Thanksgiving and of course Christmas for a few decades,

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William Halligan

Old Age: Are We There Yet?

  Sixty may be the new forty; but I’m not too sure about sixty-five. Living warm in summer Suddenly: The streets are filled With Fallen leaves [dropcap]M[/dropcap]t. San Jacinto, Southern California’s second highest peak, made me feel it: The undeniable approach of something beyond middle age. I first walked one of the several approaches to

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The Lost Troop of Dragon Peak

[dropcap]W[/dropcap]e heard the helicopter long before we saw it. We were climbing a rough path in the eastern Sierra that qualified as something between a hiking trail and a rock climb. It was tough, rocky, strewn with slippery slabs of granite and loose gravel. My wife, Andrea, swore she could stand upright and reach out

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